So could the small black capacitors be OK, too? I could take a close look at one of my B-3's and provide the exact component info, if that would help. From a Google search, "run capacitors are mostly polypropylene film capacitors". This is the first time I've read that that big fat white and blue capacitor might be better quality than those used in other B networks. Your comment made me wonder if anyone has actually identified the B-3 components to determine their quality/usable life. I'm in the same boat with 1984 units that still sound wonderful. As you probably know, the B-3 is the least discussed Cornwall network, since it was used only briefly (maybe 2.5 years, 1983 to 1985) during the Cornwall production run. Good info and insight there on the B-3 network. (Still running a Philips AF-887 turntable, too.)ĭean, hello. Crites would agree to a pre-, in addition to post-, testing of the networks, just to document how far off a 33 year old network can be.ĭemoing my system from the 80's for friends, family and acquaintances never gets old. Maybe I'll send the B-3's out for a Crites recap.
NIKKO ALPHA III MANUAL PLUS
From what I've read and heard, it would cost a thousand dollars plus to improve upon the Nikko sound. I can only turn up the Alpha 220 to about 9:00 with the Cornwalls as they are incredibly efficient. I'm fearful of what an Alpha 440 would sound like (220 wpc vs 120 wpc). I still have the Beta 20 and Gamma 20 that I purchased at that time, but have since acquired the Beta 40 and Gamma 40 which are noticeably better components. I picked up the Alpha 220 as a teenager and it's still running like new 35 years later.Ī Nikko stack plus Cornwalls is a match made in heaven. An image stabilizer has not been implemented which is hardly surprising given the price point.Too funny! You better believe that I've driving those Cornwalls with an original Nikko stack. It can focus down to a max object magnification of 1:2 (hence the M1:2 in the lens name). A specialty of the lens is its close-focusing capability. The precision is pretty good in this case.
NIKKO ALPHA III MANUAL MANUAL
As usual, manual focusing works "by-wire". When stopped down, you can hear that the camera is opening/closing the aperture during focusing operations. The same can't be said about the aperture mechanism. Typical for this focusing type, the AF speed is on the slow side but it's at least noiseless. The AF system uses a linear extension system. While we like this conceptually, it is worth noting that the hood (made in the Philippines) feels even cheaper than the lens (made in Vietnam). Rather than providing a conventional lens hood, Tamron went to a flat-faced "windowed" version. Instead, they could have made the lens shorter at the expense of having a protruding inner tube at certain focus distances. It isn't fully clear why Tamron designed the lens to be relatively long because this tube is quite deeply recessed by about 1.5cm. While the length of the lens doesn't change during focusing, there's a moving inner lens tube. Surprisingly, the lens has some seals making it moisture resistant albeit there isn't a word about dust protection. The rubberized focus ring operates smoothly albeit it doesn't scream premium. The chassis is made of average quality plastics based on a metal mount. It's available for as little as 250 USD/EUR.įor this amount of money, you can't expect professional-grade quality. We'll review them all in the next few weeks and let's start with the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 Di III OSD M1:2, thus a moderate wide-angle. Traditionally, Tamron is more of a mid-tier player but the gang of 3 is clearly budget-oriented.
In late 2019, Tamron entered the scene with three identical-looking primes - a 20mm f/2.8, 24mm f/2.8, and a 35mm f/2.8. This was followed by Sigma with a more premium approach. A few years ago, Samyang was probably the one starting the segment with a number of affordable (semi-)pancake lenses. It seems that comparatively slow-speed "budget" prime lenses are all the rage these days. Review by Klaus Schroiff, published July 2021
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